Halong Bay Vietnam

Cruising Vietnam's Halong Bay in style

The foundation myth of Vietnam's Halong Bay is one of blood and war, the countless limestone islets rising out of the water seeded by dragons sent from heaven to help the Vietnamese fight off an invading fleet from the north. Now, the bay embodies the very opposite of conflict, imparting to the visitor a supreme serenity.

In the early 1990s, the only tours of Halong Bay were in outboard motor-driven craft seating just a handful of visitors, amenities consisting of a barbecued lunch and a cooler full of beer -- and the chance of a swim. Hardly a bad time, you might say, but a far cry from the luxury on offer in 2011, in the form of full-service overnight cruises aboard the replica French paddle steamer Emeraude.

When first glimpsed at the end of its dedicated pier, the Emeraude looks like it's just arrived out of a time warp. Indeed, the original Emeraude and its sister ships were laid down around the turn of the last century, commissioned by an entrepreneurial French family to carry freight and pleasure cruisers around the bay. That vessel sank without loss of life in 1937, but its namesake -- commissioned in 2003 -- is a period masterpiece.

Painted white with deep green accents, the Emeraude forms a sharp counterpoint to the fake Chinese junks that make up the vast majority of the local tour boats. The illusion of French colonial splendor is maintained once on board, with period deck chairs, deeply polished wooden decks, brass fittings in all the interiors, and a crew turned out in perfect sailor white.

There is no doubt from the moment you step on board that the primary focus of an Emeraude cruise is comfort. No sooner have passengers made their way to the top deck to get their cabin keys than they find themselves with a fruit juice cocktail in hand -- a small but welcome gesture after the two-hour ride from Hanoi. Luggage is whisked away to the small but immaculate cabins, each with a private washroom and beds so comfortable they're hard to get out of.

Luckily, there are plenty of incentives to do just that. First of all, there's the food. The cruise, which starts at about lunchtime and goes to late morning the following day, lays on three sumptuous meals in the second-deck dining room. Anyone expecting a private waiter and plates brought to tables under silver domes will be disappointed; this is not the White Star Line. What there is, however, is a buffet of magnificent proportions.

Often the image that comes to mind with the words "all you can eat buffet" is platters of greasy, lukewarm and heavily picked-over instant food. Emeraude meals are something else completely. The food is delicious, diverse and of gourmet caliber. Diners can go through several courses, mixing and matching Asian and Western foods every time without ever eating the same thing twice. And if the Chicken Cordon Bleu or giant prawns in tamarind sauce you were eyeing are gone by your second pass, have no fear; the stream of food from the kitchen is relentless.

Greetings from Halong Bay Vietnam! | Swish Life Blog

We have recently bonded over a rat murder and are now headed onto a 15 hour death bus to Hue! Check in here for recent updates and photos of our adventures in Vietnam. As always you can reach me at victoria@swishsuits.com with any questions or comments. Or send me your travel stories and pics and you can be a part of our blog as well!

Cheers my lovely readers! I have a bus to catch!

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