Survivor to recall deadly '54 Denali climb and rescue
During one week in the spring of 1954, George Argus desperately throwing in a tent at 11,000-foot Mount McKinley. He was too injured to move after an accident that killed the leader of his climbing team, stuck in a sleeping bag in the form of snow piled up around him slowly, and stretching a thin stock of supplies left by two other survivors who left him behind when they went to get help.Argus had been at the top of the mountain 20,320 feet and was on his way down when the trouble hit. He knew that no one will try this road to the highest peak in North America this season.If his companions perished on their ancestry or snow buried their housing or help did not arrive on time, he was a goner.
It was - in the words of mountaineering writer Douglas MacDonald - "Man is the most isolated in North America."
Now in its 80 and senior researcher at the Canadian Museum of Nature, the Argus is back in Alaska this week. Monday, it will give a free lecture on the rise and its consequences at the Museum of Anchorage.
The story, a staple of Denali tradition, has been told repeatedly - by MacDonald in the climbing magazine, among others.It marked the first successful ascent of McKinley from the south, the first crossing of the mountain and the first time a helicopter was used to retrieve an injured climber.
He tells Argus' to tell. But here's the short version.
OVERLAND UP
The idea of climbing McKinley from the south and get off on the north side came from Elton Thayer, a ranger at Mount McKinley National Park.Thayer recruited three friends with Argus, Morton Wood - the husband of Ginny Wood pilot and co-founder of Camp Denali - and Leslie Viereck, a soldier, like Argus, who was assigned to Fort Richardson.
Snowshoe, woolen clothing and tents in hand, they left the train stops at Curry, traveling on foot, 17 April 1954. Adventurers Bushwhacked land 40 miles to reach what is now the starting point for many climbers, the Don Sheldon amphitheater.
Ginny Wood flew over and dropped supplies.
A pioneer of the South Buttress ascent, they found conditions more difficult than they envisaged.
"We had underestimated not only height but also the slope of the road," Wood wrote in the American Journal downhill shortly after the climb. The team painstakingly chipped steps in the face of the ice until that 'they long plumes of the shoulder with their goal in sight.
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